Destination Guide: Maui
THE GIST
You’ve been warned: if you go to Maui, you may not want to leave. Known as “The Valley Isle”, it’s the second-largest island in Hawaii and famous for attractions like the sacred Iao Valley, Haleakala National Park, and the Road to Hana. As a destination, Maui has something for everyone. World-famous beaches are ideal for whale-watching in the winter and people-watching in the summer. Incredible volcanos, national parks, and coastlines with views that don’t seem real. And don’t forget about the food...fresh island eats, farm-to-table cuisine, and some of the best sweets your sweet tooth will ever have the pleasure of chomping into.
While Maui has a little more of a remote feel than Oahu or the Big Island, there’s still plenty of hustle and bustle and so much to do and see. The days start early, jam-packed with everything the island has to offer, while the nights are quiet and lowkey. There’s a romantic air to the island (you’re likely to run into lots of “just Maui’d” honeymooners), perhaps because everywhere you look seems picture perfect. No matter where you stay or which region you visit, the bottom line is you can’t go wrong.
THE PEACH + THE PIT
The best thing about Maui: the views and the food.
Whether you’re mid-hike, salivating over the lush greenery and majestic mountains; or you’re taking a dip in the water as you stare into the sparkling cobalt-blue abyss; or you’re driving down the highway and just trying to keep your eyes on the road while you marvel at the sprawling coastline – each scene is so pretty you just might want to cry.
Then there’s the food. Everything you eat seems to be either exceptionally fresh, extremely decadent, or just plain delicious. The flavorful roasted coffee. The pillow-soft sweet bread (which is unbelievable enough on its own, not to mention as french toast). The fresh-caught fish tacos and poke. The fall-off-your-fork kalua pork. The creamy gelato and ice cream and gelato-meets-ice cream. Even the gas-station spam masubi will knock your socks off. I could definitely keep going, but you get the idea. Food lovers, you won’t be disappointed.
The worst thing about Maui: the crowds and the lack of nightlife.
Neither of these are necessarily a bad thing, depending on what you’re looking for. But understandably so, the island attracts tons of tourists – especially in the eastern, more concentrated areas like Lahaina and Kaanapali. Be prepared to fight for reservations in advance, brave crowds, and wait in (sometimes very long) lines just about everywhere. If you want to avoid crowds, look into the less touristy islands like Kauai or Lanai.
As popular of a destination as it is, you’d think there’d be plenty of nightlife in Maui – but it’s almost non-existent on the island. If you’re hoping to go out on the town, bar hop, dance, or mingle, there aren’t too many options and most bars close fairly early. So if you’re a night owl, this isn’t exactly the place to hoot and holler. (Staying in Waikiki on Oahu might be a better fit!)
THE HIT LIST
MAMA’S FISH HOUSE
Ask anyone for Maui recommendations and you’re almost guaranteed to hear “you HAVE to go to Mama’s Fish House”. Listen to that wise voice. This legendary, picturesque restaurant is an absolute MUST. Aside from being located on a small, tucked-away beach which I’m pretty sure is the textbook definition of paradise, the staff is lovely, the pleasant island ambiance strikes a rare balance of lively yet laid-back and sophisticated yet unpretentious, and the food is out of this world. Part of the fun is that you don’t even necessarily know what will be on the menu – the fish is caught and served within 24 hours, and they even tell you who caught it. From ahi poke tossed in a limey, delicious coconut milk to perfectly fried crabcakes, to lobster and crab stuffed kanpachi (thanks, Joe)…every bite is heavenly. Your meal will cost a pretty penny, yes, but every penny will be oh so pretty and oh so worth it.
HIKING
It’s no surprise that “The Valley Isle” has a plethora of hiking available. It’s easy to find a trail for any skill level, and no matter which hike you choose the payoff is well worth the trek. Whether it’s the Kapalua Coastal Trail for a leisurely stroll down a 2.5-mile path of gorgeous rocky coastline; the more difficult 4-mile out-and-back Waihe’e Ridge Trail for a climb quite literally into the clouds while you take in lush valleys, peaks, and ocean views every step of the way; or the advanced 11-mile Sliding Sands Trail across Haleakala Crater for an unforgettable all-day adventure — you won’t want to miss out on the breathtaking views the island has to offer.
LEODA’S KITCHEN AND PIE SHOP
Leoda’s is a popular spot, and for good reason: boy, can they make a pie. Located a bit off the beaten path in Lahaina, make sure you stop by for perhaps the tastiest sweet treat you’ll find on the island. Along with a full café menu, Leoda’s serves up adorably delicious pies with crumbly, buttery, graham-crackery crust and the most scrumptious cream fillings topped with light, airy whipped cream. I promise, even if you’re not a pie person, you will love this pie. Coconut Cream, Banana Cream, Peanut Butter, Apple Crumb…the easy part is eating it; the hard part is choosing which one.
THE HIDDEN GEMS
MALUAKA BEACH
There are lots of beautiful, popular beaches on the western side of the island in Kihei and Wailea, but Maluaka Beach has managed to stay under the radar a bit. Located a bit further down than you’d think to drive, tucked away around a bend, it’s a wonderful little beach within the infamous “Turtle Town” region where you can snorkel, have a quiet morning, or soak in the sun in what feels like more of a private setting.
MANUELA MALASADAS
This tiny little donut stand located in a gas station in Lahaina touts their malasadas as “Maui’s ultimate donut” and “the best donut ever”, so this place knows they’re awesome. But you may not. I can confirm that it is, in fact, awesome. These malasadas — aka small sphere-ish donuts injected with your choice of filling (from Nutella to bavarian creme to haupia) and rolled in your choice of sweet topping (from powdered sugar to cinnamon to li-hing) — are hot, fresh, and made-to-order. You may have to wait longer than you’d think, but that’s because one lone guy in the truck is slaving away, literally making the dough in front of your eyes, which will then be filled, fried, and fed directly into your stomach. Create any combination your heart desires and dig into the “best donut ever”.
SPAM MASUBI
If you’re not very familiar with Hawaii, spam masubi may not be on your radar. Or maybe it just sounds gross so you moved on immediately. But I swear on all that is salty that you’ll want to give this a try. It’s a thick hunk of fried spam (…just go with it) and an even thicker hunk of sticky white rice neatly wrapped together with a strip of seaweed. It’s simple and salty, and so so good. Get it from a gas station, a convenience store, a restaurant, a grocery market. It doesn’t matter. It’ll be good from anywhere on the island because it’ll be the real deal. And the best part: it’s almost always under $2.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
COVID RESTRICTIONS
Hawaii’s health and safety protocols are frequently changing. Check www.gohawaii.com/travel-requirements for the latest requirements. My biggest tip? Give yourself some extra time at the airport to get through security and anticipate any delays!
WHEN TO VISIT
Maui is great for lush waterfalls and whale watching in the winter, but there tends to be more rain and cooler weather. The summer will be the warmest but also the most crowded. So the sweet spot to visit would be spring or fall; overall demand is down so the island is less busy and prices are more affordable, but the weather is still ideal.